kenleewrites in 日本

After visiting Odawara Castle, I spent the rest of that weekend at a Japanese inn (ryokan) and hot spring (onsen) in Hakone. Yukata, obi, towels and hand towels. Just some of the things you’ll definitely see at every ryokan and onsen.

Yukatas are provided for guests and it’s expected that while you’re there, you put that on. Easy to get in and out of when you go for a dip in the hot springs. I used to think nothing special of changing into yukata at onsens. But recently, the process of getting out of my everyday wear at onsens is becoming quite relaxing. Something almost ritualistic.

This ryokan is located in Hakone. It’s called Musashino Bekkan (Musashino Annex) and has a very nice entrance. Unfortunately, the website is only in Japanese. The main Musashino hot spring is apparently very popular and I heard that if you were to make a reservation today, expect to get in same time next year. ^^.

The interior of the inn had tatami flooring. Even the elevator had tatami flooring. I found that very impressive. No need for slippers, one can just walk barefooted anywhere.

There’s a lounge with free wifi. A little something if one is having business meetings here, which I’m told happens quite often.

We waited here while they checked us in. This photo wasn’t taken at the same time, but there was a Charlie Chaplin movie playing on the screen. Black and white, and silent. I didn’t know those old movies were so watchable. Made it a point to rent some of his DVDs when I visit Tsutaya next. Have you seen any of his movies?

We were a strong 5 and were given a pretty spacious room with lots of tatami mats.

In addition to the main table, there’s a Japanese hot table in the far back. Those hot tables are pretty addictive in winter.

As you can see, no 4 legged chairs. A little uncomfortable if you’re not used to sitting cross-legged on the floor. Even after so many trips to the onsen, I have never gotten used to sitting cross-legged on the floor. I keep fidgeting around. Maybe it’s just that I have long legs.

These arm rests by the side, extremely comfortable.

Some nice flowers decorate the room.

Unlike my group, I didn’t immediately leave for the onsen. I spent some time coding on a project I was working on. I must say, it was very nice working there in a completely unfamiliar environment.

When I decided that I had done enough, I left the room and headed off for the onsen.

Went straight to the main public onsen (daiyokujyou). Ladies use the stairs on the left. Men go right.

I’m sure you know. But at an onsen, you get to bathe naked with everyone else. Here’s event horizon. Where you strip down before joining everyone else. The baskets on the left are where you put your clothes. The general rule of thumb is, if you’re over 30 hold your face towel in hand and walk normally. Under 30, you’re expected to feel shy and cover up sensitive areas with your face towel while you walk around. At least, that’s what I noticed or think I saw. ^^.

If you’re wondering why it’s so empty, I have no idea. It just so happens that when I went, no one was there.

Had the whole place to myself. There’s also a smaller one outside by the balcony.

Before leaping into the hot spring, it’s only fair to spend a good amount of time cleaning oneself since you’re sharing it with whoever’s there (even when there’s nobody there). The inn provides shampoo and body soap. Sometimes even facial wash. Use hand towel to scrub yourself clean. Once the cleaning is done, be sure to give that towel a good wash. Wring it dry and bring it with you.

As you slowly dip into the hot spring, fold your hand towel neatly into quarters and place it on your head. It’s considered rude to use that towel when in the hot spring.

Once you’re done relaxing in the hot spring, dry yourself off and change into the yukata.

There’s a nice little bar on the way back to my room. Although you can have beer and snacks, I only stopped by for some complimentary tea. And after a nice relaxing hot bath, a glass of ice cold tea is extremely refreshing.

They have quite a few potent health liqueurs on display. I spoke with the lady behind the bar and promised to come back for one sometime after dinner.

Right opposite the bar, there’s another counter where one can sit and gaze into the mountain side.

When I got back to the room, dinner was being prepared.

Here’s a photo of the dinner menu. Dinner’s a course meal with a bit of everyone from the mountain and from the sea.

This was the appetizer. I find it hard taking photos when having a course meal. I usually just forget to take photos and just eat and eat. ^^.

The brown block in the top left with the pinkish solid fuel is for cooking my seafood dish; abalone.

Somewhere during the course, there was sashimi. The toro (fatty tuna) was awesome. It literally melted in my mouth. Too bad I only had 2 slices…

The last time I had abalone was many many many years ago. How about you?

It’s always hard to take photos of food, especially when you’re eating. So that’s all the photos I have from dinner.

A little after dinner, unmasked ninjas will suddenly appear, tidy up the room and make our futons for the night.

There, doesn’t that look nice and cosy?

This particular ryokan had private hot springs which were open 24 hours. As long as it’s not occupied, you can just pop in, lock the door and enjoy the hot spring.

And that was just what I did. Whenever it was unoccupied, I went in and locked the door behind me.

Spent the rest of the night at the bar.

I found it particularly enjoyable working there. You could code, get stuck, soak in the hot spring, eureka, continue coding. ^^.

Of course, I wasn’t working all the time.

Breakfast menu.

Unlike dinner, breakfast was a one course affair. Again, a little of everything from the mountain and from the sea.

Trips to the onsen usually last 2 days and a night. Check in after lunch the day before, spend a night and leave before lunch the next day.

And I wasn’t about to leave without trying all of their hot springs! This is the entrance to one of their other private onsens. Locked the door behind me as I went in.

There’s a short walk from the entrance. It was like leaving the world behind as I went through this “secret tunnel”.

I’ve been in outdoor onsens, but this is something different. This one was really outdoors! I can imagine how enjoyable it will be in winter.

When I first tried onsens, I didn’t particularly enjoy it. It was hot and I was sweating. I didn’t last more than 3 minutes. But I guess it grew on me. Every onsen I went to after my first became more enjoyable. If you tried it and didn’t like it at first, give it some time. Maybe it will grow on you too.

I really had a great time at Musashino Bekkan. ^^. If you’re planning on visiting an onsen in Hakone, why not give this place a try?

Related posts... maybe:

1. Japanese Onsen Slippers
2. Sounkyo-Kurodake
3. Out and about Lake Toya at night
4. Japanese Graduations: Spring 2009
5. Towards Yugawara: On the road and Mt Fuji

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Tags: hakone

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